Gucci’s Milan fashion week kickoff: Sabato De Sarno introduces refined tailoring and subdued elegance.

Gucci’s creative director, Sabato De Sarno, set the tone for Milan Fashion Week with a sophisticated collection of refined tailoring for men, infusing touches of sparkle into a subdued color palette. The Kering-owned label’s aesthetic reset, under De Sarno’s creative direction, featured models striding down a minimalist concrete runway in chunky-soled loafers.

The collection showcased floor-sweeping overcoats with long slits up the back, double-breasted suit jackets devoid of buttons, and trousers cut above the ankles. Accessories included glossy Jackie handbags in burgundy, beige, or pea green, often paired with matching gloves, along with chunky jewelry worn over bare chests.

De Sarno’s second catwalk presentation aligns with the gradual introduction of products from his debut collection, signaling a departure from the flamboyant styles associated with the previous designer, Alessandro Michele. The runway presentation emphasized real-life elements, irreverent glamour, and simplicity, reflecting a shift toward pared-down and polished looks.

The collection made its mark on the red carpet earlier in the week when Taylor Swift donned a shimmery, floor-length gown in bright green at the Golden Globe Awards.

Gucci’s style reset serves as a cornerstone for the label’s turnaround efforts led by longtime Kering executive Jean-Francois Palus, who has taken on the role of Gucci’s chief executive officer.

The Milan Fashion Week lineup features numerous shows and events taking place in the Italian fashion capital through January 16, including presentations from top names such as Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, and Giorgio Armani.

This comes at a time when the luxury industry is grappling with slowing demand for high-end fashion due to rising living costs. Shares of Burberry, undergoing its own brand overhaul, experienced a sharp decline after the British company lowered guidance for the second time in three months.