In an extraordinary feat of endurance and courage, five Pakistani mountaineers have successfully summited the formidable 8,126-meter Nanga Parbat within the last 24 hours. Among them, two climbers, Ashraf Sadpara and Sohail Sakhi, accomplished the incredible challenge without using supplemental oxygen—a rare and commendable achievement on one of the world’s deadliest mountains.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan and other sources within the mountaineering community confirmed to Geo News that Dr Rana Hassan Javed, Ali Hassan, Sohail Sakhi, Ashraf Sadpara, and Shehzad Karim successfully reached the summit of the “Killer Mountain,” which holds the grim reputation of being the ninth-highest peak in the world with one of the highest fatality rates.
For Ashraf Sadpara, the climb marked a historic milestone. The son of the late legendary mountaineer Ali Raza Sadpara, Ashraf reached the summit early Friday morning, completing his quest to climb all five of Pakistan’s 8,000-meter peaks. These include K2 (which he has now summited three times), Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat.
“This morning, the renowned Pakistani climber Ashraf Sadpara successfully summited the mighty Nanga Parbat. With this achievement, Ashraf has now climbed all five of Pakistan’s 8,000-meter peaks, including K2 three times—a testament to his unmatched determination, skill, and spirit of adventure,” said Ayaz Ahmed Shigri of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. “We are incredibly proud of your contribution to Pakistan’s mountaineering legacy.”
Equally notable was the achievement of Sohail Sakhi from Hunza, who summited Nanga Parbat at 11am local time without using artificial oxygen or any Sherpa support—an extremely rare feat on such a dangerous peak. The expedition company Moving Mountains confirmed his summit and hailed it as a defining moment in Pakistan’s mountaineering history.
“This isn’t just a climb—it’s a monumental achievement in Pakistani mountaineering,” said the expedition team. “Taking on the Killer Mountain without supplemental oxygen or support and succeeding is the mark of a true legend. Sohail has already summited Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II (both without oxygen), and K2. With this Nanga Parbat ascent, he solidifies his place among the mountaineering elite.”
Another remarkable summit came from Dr Rana Hassan Javed, a plastic surgeon based in Rawalpindi, who reached the top as part of an eight-member international team. This successful summit marks his second 8,000-meter peak, following his 2024 ascent of Gasherbrum II. Dr Rana’s ability to balance a demanding medical career with a passion for extreme mountaineering drew admiration from fellow climbers.
“Dr Hassan Rana summited Nanga Parbat—this is his second 8,000er. Last year he summited Gasherbrum II. He balances his profession as a doctor and his passion for mountaineering with incredible dedication,” noted fellow climber Naila Kiani, herself a prominent figure in Pakistani high-altitude climbing.
Ali Hassan, a seasoned high-altitude porter from Hushe Valley, also successfully reached the summit alongside Dr Rana on Thursday. Their shared achievement adds to the growing legacy of porters from the region who continue to support and lead major climbs in Pakistan’s rugged mountains.
Shehzad Karim, another climber from Hunza, reached the summit at 1pm on Friday. His successful ascent adds another chapter to Hunza’s growing legacy in high-altitude mountaineering, with local climbers repeatedly proving their mettle on the world’s most demanding peaks.
Known for its deadly weather and avalanche-prone slopes, Nanga Parbat has long tested the limits of human endurance. The mountain’s reputation as the “Killer Mountain” is well-earned, with many fatal incidents over the decades. That makes these successful climbs all the more significant, particularly for those who attempted it without supplemental oxygen.
As of now, all five climbers have begun their descent, with expedition teams and support crews closely monitoring their return to base camp. Their safe arrival will mark the full completion of what is already being hailed as a landmark event in the history of Pakistani mountaineering.
These achievements underscore Pakistan’s growing prominence in the global mountaineering scene and highlight the extraordinary resilience, skill, and courage of its climbers. From professionals to porters, these individuals continue to raise the national flag on the world’s highest and most dangerous summits.
